LOOKS REALLY GOOD. DOES THE FIRST BEST HAVE BIGGER PORTIONS OR BETTER QUALITY FISH?
It’s quite telling what our national dish says about us. It’s not peasant cooking like the best Italian food, or courtly like French haut cuisine, it’s a staple of the urban working class, a remnant of industrialisation.
We’ve forgotten what happened to the landless two, two and a half centuries ago, separated from the land by the enclosures, the legalised theft of the common land by the rich and those with friends in parliament.
“They drove them from the skirts of commons, downs and forests,” wrote William Cobbett at the tail end of the great age of enclosure. “They took away their cows, pigs, geese, fowls, bees and gardens. They crowded them into miserable outskirts of towns and villages, for their children to become ricketty and diseased, confined amongst filth and vermin. They took from them their best inheritance: sweet air, health and…
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