The Most Supreme Pleasure

FOR SME OF US, STANDING ON THE BEACH WATCHING WILL HAVE TO DO! 😦

“I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea.”  – Captain James Cooke, upon witnessing surfing for the first time, Tahiti, 1777.

Riding a wave with precision and skill requires a confident, well-concentrated effort.  It can be a major adrenaline rush.  Sliding through the tube, fully shaded, tucked deep in a watery cavern (pictured above) surfers experience elevated levels of adrenaline which raises the heart rate and increases their reaction time.

“Welcome to my pleasure room.”

If a surfer unexpectedly manages to escape the barreling pit then he or she will be rewarded with a sudden surge of dopamine, a chemical neurotransmitter, released in the brain causing the surfer to experience joy and happiness.  This is essentially the definition of, “stoked.”  Even the mere anticipation of waves can release dopamine as the surfer’s brain intuitively…

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About Jonathan Caswell

Mr. Caswell has been composing poetry at least since High School. He has been on WORD PRESS for ten years and contributes to two other blogs beside this one. This blog has a Christian emphasis but all bloggers are welcome. Mr. Caswell chooses to---with permission--re[post material of interest

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